Harder pull
One tooth fewer at the front, or a couple more at the rear. The bike pulls harder out of corners and lifts the front sooner, at the cost of top speed and higher revs on the highway.
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Sprockets matched to your bike, year by year, and sealed chains by pitch and length. Stock gearing, a change of gearing, or a chain conversion.
Every sprocket is matched to your bike and model years, with the stock tooth counts shown, before it goes on the site.
A chain is chosen by pitch and link count, not by bike model. Count the links on your chain or check your owner's manual.
A new chain on worn sprockets wears out quickly, and so do new sprockets on an old chain. Replace the chain and both sprockets as a set.
Sprockets set your gearing. Keep the stock tooth counts and the bike rides the way it left the factory, or change them to make it pull harder or cruise easier.
One tooth fewer at the front, or a couple more at the rear. The bike pulls harder out of corners and lifts the front sooner, at the cost of top speed and higher revs on the highway.
One tooth more at the front, or fewer at the rear. Lower revs at highway speed and a calmer pull, at the cost of acceleration.
Changing tooth counts changes your speedometer reading on most bikes, and may need a different chain length.
The number is the chain's pitch and width. A chain and both sprockets must share it, and every sprocket listing names its pitch in the title.
The chain carries all of the engine's power to the rear wheel. A worn one stretches, kinks and loses its lubrication, and you feel it as a snatchy drive on and off the throttle long before it lets go.